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I also have hard water where I live, and I’ve found that leaving a cup (or two, if it’s really bad) right-side up in the top rack and filling them with white vinegar before a wash will completely prevent any mineral buildup from forming in the load, as the acidity in the vinegar allows the minerals to dissolve into the water.
(if your water is only kinda hard, you can try only adding vinegar every second or third load, once you notice the mineral build-up. Even if you’re in a really hard-water area, worth experimenting with how much you really need).
Citric acid is the primary ingredient in most dishwasher cleaners. Of course, not a good idea to use it in every load. However, my DW manufacture suggests up to 10% citric acid solution as an alternative to rinse aid.
I haven’t seen any aluminum in a dishwasher, and I have noted that if I send any aluminum through it tarnishes like crazy and pits on repeat offenses. I don’t think that hot caustic water is any environment in which to design an aluminum part.
That said, again, dishwasher detergent is basic, so you’re right in that adding acid probably won’t improve the efficacy of the wash cycle.
The spindle that supports the basket in washers is made of unprotected aluminum and designed to fail at about seven years of use. On Bosch models, they seal this in so it cannot be fixed.
That said, again, dishwasher detergent is basic, so you’re right in that adding acid probably won’t improve the efficacy of the wash cycle.
Though I can’t confirm this, I suspect that the vinegar is mostly removed with the the pre-rinse water, which may negate or disrupt an added pre-rinse detergent, but should be mostly gone by the main wash to not effect the main load of detergent released at that time.
Is there a way to do that with a sink hookup that also allows my sink hookup dishwasher to attach to it? I rent and don’t have access to the water heater, or the OK to mess with the guts of the sink, or open up a wall or anything like that.
Either way it’s not a big deal, worst case scenario I keep doing what’s been working fine.
You could try something like that, then you would have to also pick some fittings to match whatever your dishwasher supply line uses. You would also need another short hose between the filter housing and your dishwasher. I think you could recharge the cartridge by soaking it in salt water occasionally, but otherwise they sell replacement cartridges.
I also have hard water where I live, and I’ve found that leaving a cup (or two, if it’s really bad) right-side up in the top rack and filling them with white vinegar before a wash will completely prevent any mineral buildup from forming in the load, as the acidity in the vinegar allows the minerals to dissolve into the water.
(if your water is only kinda hard, you can try only adding vinegar every second or third load, once you notice the mineral build-up. Even if you’re in a really hard-water area, worth experimenting with how much you really need).
I’ll have to give that a try! I use citric acid for cleaning cycles, but vinegar is cheaper.
Acid no bueno for the aluminum basket spindles on all modern washers. Better off sending in softened water.
Citric acid is the primary ingredient in most dishwasher cleaners. Of course, not a good idea to use it in every load. However, my DW manufacture suggests up to 10% citric acid solution as an alternative to rinse aid.
I haven’t seen any aluminum in a dishwasher, and I have noted that if I send any aluminum through it tarnishes like crazy and pits on repeat offenses. I don’t think that hot caustic water is any environment in which to design an aluminum part.
That said, again, dishwasher detergent is basic, so you’re right in that adding acid probably won’t improve the efficacy of the wash cycle.
The spindle that supports the basket in washers is made of unprotected aluminum and designed to fail at about seven years of use. On Bosch models, they seal this in so it cannot be fixed.
Any sources on that?
Though I can’t confirm this, I suspect that the vinegar is mostly removed with the the pre-rinse water, which may negate or disrupt an added pre-rinse detergent, but should be mostly gone by the main wash to not effect the main load of detergent released at that time.
Is there a way to do that with a sink hookup that also allows my sink hookup dishwasher to attach to it? I rent and don’t have access to the water heater, or the OK to mess with the guts of the sink, or open up a wall or anything like that.
Either way it’s not a big deal, worst case scenario I keep doing what’s been working fine.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/8986T16
You could try something like that, then you would have to also pick some fittings to match whatever your dishwasher supply line uses. You would also need another short hose between the filter housing and your dishwasher. I think you could recharge the cartridge by soaking it in salt water occasionally, but otherwise they sell replacement cartridges.
Sweet! I dunno if it’ll fit, but I’ll look into it.