You know Proton, and how the various versions have different compatibility? And some games might prefer a specific Proton? This stuff is a… “Linux base” that developers can target, so for example if I make a game tomorrow and target a specific version, it’ll run tomorrow like in 20 years, because no matter how the actual system will change, that “Linux base” I targeted will still be there.

What about a partially cleaned blob… of PP… that also went inside the sock?

So, fun issue those things can have: my Sovol SV07 Plus has one and it works great… or it did until the filament chewed through the plastic and made very awkward channels in and out of it. In itself no big deal, still goes through the sensor, but the issue is that it can be a bit too tight of a fit and get jammed. Like, HARD so you have to try pulling it both ways before it dislodges. It’s not a fun way for a print to fail. My workaround is to use a tiny bit of ptfe tube at the entrance, hot glued there so the filament will go straight. So far it’s been working.

Happy cake day!

I mean, the question was about importing settings, PEEK or PLA wouldn’t make a substantial difference in “there’s a menu a little out of sight this way, you also need to do this and that in Cura” and, given how Cura was the top dog for the last few years, one would think that the new hotness would have a way to easily get people to switch. I don’t know how challenging that is from a technical perspective, but evidently it’s enough to not make it worth it to the developers… anyway I copied the speed settings, saved the profile as “0.18 decent” and since I was there, connected Klipper too. Ready for testing.

That aside, wanting to find the simple way is different from lack of experience. I think I got that between putting together the aforementioned Ender 3, replacing the board with a SKR 3, and contextually adding a BLTouch, something that required editing and recompiling Marlin ;)

There IS a profile for my specific printer, it just feels made by a competing company as (not hyperbole) whatever they did make it slower than a first gen Ender 3. Tuning materials I don’t mind, but at least a working starting point?

Yeah, mine (that I didn’t scientifically measure but….) requires a hell of an effort to pull open using only my pinky. Obviously I don’t expect that mine is the only model on the market XD but that’s what I know

Not sure what kind of dishwasher we’re talking about, but I have a SwitchBot and it’s made to push buttons: it wouldn’t be anywhere near powerful enough to open a dishwasher (as I know them)

Sweet! I’m using ALVR, but options are more than welcome.

Look, I have a Mac, I like the ecosystem but have a handful of Linux machines (including my laptop) so I’m, ahem, not the average Mac user. You go in the App Store and enjoy whatever games are there. Or hear that on Steam they’re less expensive and go through that… then discover that there’s a boatload of Mac games that simply won’t work on your OS because they are 32 bit and Apple dropped support for that in 2019 (meaning that from 2019 no Mac, even Intel ones, can run those games). Then, there’s the Crossover option: a paid product that will allow you to install Steam for Windows and any game compatible with that platform. It’ll use GPTK for compatibility and it’s a big supporter of WINE, so a purchase helps open source…

But: how likely do you think that an Apple user will go that far off the beaten path?

Mandatory reminder to remove the microsd before opening the Deck…

Ah, great choice! I use the same model for my NAS. Anyway the N100 is really powerful for this task, and should have enough spare power to allow experimentation with different addons. Plex likes the intel chip and uses it for transcoding, if you want to do that.

In theory yes. The Mac version is just a remote desktop solution, no VR so a game like Civ where you can do everything with the mouse should be doable. Not sure if using a gamepad connected to the headset would work as that’s a few extra layers of complexity… but not a real concern for Civ, am I right? XD

Yes! ALVR works, but the entirety of the settings in Virtual Desktop is reachable from the device itself, no need to remove it to change the those that don’t require a restart.

I have none of those issues, but a couple of extra weird ones… this is the official dock btw. First, maybe it’s something I plugged in, but the Deck’s battery will be drained (slowly, over many days) if it’s plugged in and not turned on. Suspended or off is the same, I must unplug. Then the one that really pisses me off because I can’t wrap my head around it, I can’t unplug it unless I fully turn it off first. Doing otherwise tends to make my home network comatose! Basically nothing can see anything. Computers lose connection to the NAS, to the router… nothing works until I plug it back and turn it on, then I can turn it off and unplug. ffs.

I got Warplanes Air Corp and also Battle over the Pacific. And Dragon Age Veilguard.

However, lol, the servers must be a little overloaded, it’s downloading at dozens of megabits and, running a speed test at the same time gave me over 700 so yeah. It’ll take some patience XD

Yep! Just pick any Proton, and it’ll work… my favorite is experimental as it’s always updated, but the latest one is fine, same if you want to use proton GE.

Have you considered Snowrunner, Farming Simulator and American/Euro truck simulator? All games capable of unplugging your brain for a while. Just remember to manually set Proton if you play either truck sim, they have a terribly unoptimized Linux native version that runs poorly on the Deck.

It’s a computer, after all. But if you want to try it… don’t expect too much: a simple game, VERY pixelated by the time I’ve reduced the resolution enough was enough to make it barely hit 60fps. A cool experiment, but not much more…

The weirdest thing so far has been setting up Steam VR with ALVR because I could. And it technically works XD

I have Zigbee stuff. Here’s what I like about that: they bridge between each other (if they’re powered rather than battery operated) and that extends the range. The range can be great to begin with! They’re not on my network, adding confusion or load on the access points, plus they can’t phone home… all local. Then there’s smart switches, and I’m going to point out that without WiFi they can’t be controlled, but Zigbee? Sure, I can easily power cycle my router and access points with Zigbee smart plugs! In fact I have an automation to do that daily. Finally, if something is WiFi you can’t know in advance if it’s cloud based or not, and regardless of that it’s a potentially unsafe device that is connected to the internet. Low power, but botnets work with numbers rather than power.