I scroll past the sponsored Google result links to get to the non-sponsored one that was “identical”. I haven’t intentionally clicked an ad in a while. Generally if I want to click an ad I just Google what I need to not need to. I use a pi-hole so generally I don’t see them.

I mean two little hunks of plastic are most definitely cheaper than something big and sturdy in the middle as it needs to be over engineered to make up for the lack of physics being on its side. You can buy an aftermarket TV stand or wall mount it.

If it closed slowly enough you could just measure resistance or voltage of the motor to determine if it’s not moving. The problem is all the other things that you need to do before you can even close a door like shutting a fruit drawer.

It’s a lot cheaper to install one sensor per door than it is to install a motor for every moving compartment and a sensor to see if it needs to be closed and that’s just to make sure every door can be closed. A lot of extra circuitry for something they can just do on the cheap.

There shouldn’t be any loss of quality assuming the KVM (keyboard video mouse) or video switch supports the same standard as your other devices. For example if you buy a HDMI 2.0 switch and try to pass a HDMI 2.1 signal the switch would be the bottleneck and you would be limited to 4k60hz for example. A common issue with them is having handshake issues where the computer can’t negotiate the signal between the monitor and the device. Generally the nicer ones will do a good job of this. Additionally another issue not really related the the switch but let’s say you use HDMI for example will have higher signal degradation the longer the cable is so let’s say you were to use 2x 15 foot passive cables with the switch in-between you might get signal dropout as the switch won’t boost the signal. That is easily fixed by getting active cables or not using as long of cables or if your cables have poor shielding getting better ones.

I still have decently high power draw even after the update. 4k160+4k60 and I’m at 50w idle down from 70-80w. That’s with hdr off since w10 doesn’t handle it well. If I set both to 60hz I’m below 20w tho but that was the case even with 23.7.2.

There’s a tool to export/import your settings but that’s it. Can’t remember where it is but it’s somewhere on GitHub.

Only way I get normalish power numbers is when I set both my 4k displays to 60hz then I idle in the teens. That’s when hdr off. When I was messing with custom resolutions I noticed that setting a lower bit rate did improve things so it’s possible it has something to do with that. Hoping 23.8.1 helps when that comes.