Stopped using Reddit when the API disaster happened. Switched to Lemmy and stayed there for about 2 years. Now, I’m experimenting with Piefed.

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Joined 1 month ago
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Cake day: February 1st, 2026

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  • I go through periods of high and low caffeine intake, so I have some experience in managing withdrawals.

    Let’s say you want to go down from 4 cups to 2 cups. Here’s how to do it:

    1. Write down how much you currently use. Let’s say you’re using the traditional 60 g/l recipe and a 200 ml cup. Therefore your starting point is: 60 g/l × 0.2 l × 4 cups/d = 48 g/d
    2. Prepare a daily plan on how do you go from 48 g/d (4 cups/d) to 24 g/d (2 cups/d). I would recommending reducing the does by 1 g of beans per day. So, if you used 48 g of beans yesterday, grind only 47 g today and 46 tomorrow etc. If headaches occur, you need to go slower. If you’re drinking dark roast or if you have a headache resistant head, you can probably get away with 1.5 g/d or 2 g/d reduction rate.
    3. Don’t switch to another type of coffee while ramping down your intake, since the different caffeine concentration in the beans will change the daily dose. You don’t know the mass of caffeine, but you do know the mass of the beans you grind. Don’t introduce unknown variables. This is hard enough as it is.
    4. Don’t drink coffee made by other people. You won’t be able to control your intake properly.

    That’s how I do it when ramping down my intake. You can also go all the way to zero if you like. The same logic applies to tea as well, but doing it gets a bit tricky. The concentration of caffeine in the solids is much higher in tea, so 1 g/d reduction rate is far too rapid. You also need to have a good scale, and you need to weigh very small masses, which may require some trickery.




  • Oh, ok so that was only a 10⁹ times more… No biggie. LOL.

    Anyway, as long as you’re able to sleep well, it should be ok. Personally, I think 2 cups (2*200 ml) is a good amount for me. The exact amount of caffeine that contains depends on the type of coffee beans I use. The concentration in the drinkable liquid should be around 300 mg/l, but who knows really. Dark roast will have less than light roast. In any case, that could be something like 2cups/d *0.2 l/cup *300 mg/l = 120 mg/d. Compared to that, I would still say your caffeine intake is a lot higher than mine.

    Anyway, as a fun thought experiment, I looked up what caffeine costs and what it would take to buy 400 Mg of it. Sigma-Aldrich/Merck sells 25 kg drums of this stuff and they charge only 1060 € for each. What a bargain for food grade caffeine!

    That means, you would need to order 16 000 drums of it. That will be quite a few pallets. Is that going to be more than a single lorry? Don’t worry about it. It will cost you only 16 960 000 €, so I guess now would be a good time to start a company to get those tax deductions on chemical orders. On the other hand, you might actually want to contact one of the many factories that produce decaf beans and ask for a better price. All of that caffeine has to go somewhere, right?

    Usually, I would recommend using gloves, respirator, full hazmat suit etc. when handling this kind of cargo, but in this case that would kinda defeat the purpose.

    source: https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/DE/en/product/aldrich/w222402








  • Turns out a lot has happened in the past five years. It was about time I took another look at the EV market.

    I narrowed it down to cars manufactured in 2019, and I found so many Nissan Leafs. Those are the kind you’d only want to drive when the ambient temperature suits NMC batteries. Maybe a third of the year, if you’re being generous. Not too long ago, those cars were new and really expensive, but still equally niche products as they are today. Many competing models had the same issues back then, and my perceptions were shaped by that era.

    Another popular model seems to be the Renault Zoe. Some versions can heat the battery to optimal temperatures, so I guess a Zoe could be a reasonable option as long as you do your due diligence. These Zoes are now used and very affordable, so I’d say we’ve passed the point of no return. EVs are a viable option today. 😀

    Well… assuming you have a place to charge it. Right now, I don’t, so it’s back to square one for me. 😞




  • Recently I realised that my EV data needed an update. Previously I thought that everything even remotely affordable was automatically Nissan Leaf level of useless. Well, the cheapest ones still are, but within the affordable range there are some cars that aren’t trash. I was surprised to find something I could realistically consider buying.

    As long as I can figure out a way to charge it, my next car will be electric. Currently, I can’t charge at home, so there’s a bit of a problem…




  • Did some quick market research and the numbers are in.

    If your only drive in good weather in a city, you can get an EV for about 5 k€. If your country has snow and ice enabled, you’ll need to spend about 12 k€, but that’s still tolerable.

    It’s not that expensive after all. Used to be pretty absurd a few years ago. Next, I’ll just need to figure out how to charge an EV. I’ll probably need to move to a newer building first.




  • The only good things about NMC cells is the energy density and the ability to pull a decent power during acceleration.

    When it comes to temperatures, they are surprisingly picky. Too hot or cold, and they wear out quickly. If you push beyond that, you’ll lose range instantly. That’s why a heat pump is such a great thing to have.

    Also, the state of charge matters to longevity. If you use the wrong percentages frequently, you’ll start losing capacity sooner or later. Even if you treat the battery perfectly, it’s still going to wear out like the tires do, but this thing costs as much as an engine.

    I’m really looking forward to seeing all the other battery chemistries take their share of the market.