Impressive!

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

• You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
• Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
• Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
• Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)

Yes I have installed the new multi-channel branch on all my TS10s. I suppose if you want to use the aux as a channel then you could prefer it to be brighter.

For myself, my aux leds are in high mode when in standby, and go to low mode when auto-lockout kicks in.

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won’t be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

That’s the correct order

Stupid me, you are right. I can’t tell “R” from “B” from the label on the actual board. I think I swapped all of mine on purpose because I wanted the sequence of colour change to go from outside to inside. Again, not that it matters, because none of mine are RGB lol.

Perfect soldering as expected. I can’t help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.

Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.

Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?